我们品尝了香港最著名的街头海鲜 | 街头美食 | Bon Appétit：英语精读讲义

You just got here early.

你来得还挺早。

Sun's still up.

太阳还没下山呢。

People aren't quite here yet,

人都还没怎么来，

but the kitchen just started cranking. 用詞

但厨房已经开始忙活了。

So let's see what they're cooking at Oi Man Sang.

我们来看看爱文生在做些什么。

Seafood dai pai dong.

海鲜大排档。

This is what we call a dai pai dong, 文化背景

这就是我们所说的大排档，

which literally translates to big license stall. 短語搭配

字面意思就是拥有大牌照的摊位。

They make this thing we call siu chau, 文化背景

他们做一种我们叫做小炒的东西，

small stir fries.

就是小份的爆炒菜。

They specialize in fresh seafood,

他们专做新鲜海鲜，

huge amounts of seasoning,

会放大量的调料，

big aromatics,

重香料，

high-octane cooking, 習語

猛火爆炒，

always absorbing new cultural influences,

总是吸收新的饮食文化，

serving a huge amount of people.

服务于庞大的人群。

So, we're in the district,

那么，我们现在所在的这片区域，

a neighborhood called Sham Shui Po.

是一个叫深水埗的街区。

Sham Shui Po is known for a lot of manufacturing,

深水埗以制造业闻名，

a lot of textiles,

有很多纺织厂，

and this type of eating was sort of blue-collar and democratic and all over the place. 用詞

这种饮食方式多少有些蓝领和大众化，随处可见。

Everyone from every sector of society all over Hong Kong will descend on places like this because you get to drink cold beer, 短語動詞

香港社会各界的人都会来到像这样的地方，因为你可以喝冰啤酒，

eat hot food all four seasons.

一年四季都能吃上热腾腾的饭菜。

Because of the history,

因为历史原因，

the push and pull, 習語

几经波折，

there aren't that many dai pai dongs left in Hong Kong.

香港剩下的大排档已经不多了。

There're probably only around about 20 of these guys left.

大概只剩下20家左右。

You'd read different stories.

你可能会听到不同的说法。

Some people might say there used to be 700, 語法

有人可能说以前有700家，

there used to be 2,000,

以前有2000家，

there used to be 3,000.

以前有3000家。

Point is, 表達脈絡

重点是，

as wonderful as this place is, 語法

尽管这个地方很棒，

a little bit of a rare sight.

如今也算是罕见的景象了。

These are really traditional old school types of restaurants in Hong Kong, 用詞

这些真的是香港非常传统的老派餐厅，

where government gave people licenses to cook on the street.

政府给人们发放了在街头烹饪的牌照。

Now, the government doesn't issue these licenses anymore,

现在，政府不再发放这些牌照了，

which means that the only way to keep cooking at a place like this is to transfer that license from a friend to a friend or from one generation to the next generation.

这意味着要继续在这样的地方经营，唯一的办法就是把牌照转让给朋友，或者代代相传。

Uh-huh.

嗯哼。

Oh.

哦。

Oh.

哦。

So this license they've held on to for 60 years. 短語動詞

所以这个牌照他们已经保留了60年。

As a result,

结果是，

these guys the guys who are operating it,

这些经营的人，

they're not the owners of the license but the operators of the restaurant.

他们不是牌照的主人，而是餐厅的经营者。

The way it's set up is based on lines.

这里的运作方式是流水线作业。

This chef's job here,

这位厨师的工作，

what you might call a garde manger, 文化背景

你可以称之为配菜员，

is to put together these little bowls of ingredients that are then passed off to the wok station so that all the wok guys need to do is cook it and then put it on top of a plate. 講解

就是把这些装着食材的小碗准备好，然后传递给炒锅师傅，炒锅师傅只需要把它们炒熟然后装盘就行了。

Whatever the chef needs for their dish,

无论厨师做什么菜需要什么食材，

that's the guy that's going to put it all together. 短語動詞

那个人都会把所有的材料准备妥当。

On the right hand side is the seafood butcher.

右边这位是海鲜处理师傅。

He's going to butcher, clean,

他负责根据订单宰杀、清洗，

and prepare all the seafood to order. 短語搭配

并准备所有的海鲜。

All the seafood fresh comes in every single day.

所有的海鲜每天都是新鲜送达。

These tanks are all live fish.

这些水缸里都是活鱼。

You get pomfret,

有白鲳，

you have dong sing pan,

有东星斑，

and crabs and as well,

还有螃蟹，

and that's what we're going to ask chef to make.

这也是我们要请厨师做的。

Uh this is crab that's known for its flesh.

呃，这种螃蟹以肉质饱满著称。

It's killed to order,

现点现杀，

chopped up, split up, butchered.

切块，劈开，处理好。

Woo!

哇！

In the middle are two chefs each with their own woks.

中间是两位厨师，每人一口锅。

They specialize in their own dishes.

他们各自负责自己的拿手菜。

Right hand side tends to be the slightly more complicated oftentimes seafood dishes. 語法

右边通常做稍微复杂一点的，往往是海鲜类的菜。

Left hand side a lot more sauces and vegetables stir fries.

左边更多是做酱汁和蔬菜炒菜。

Everything they need is in exact arm's reach.

他们需要的一切都触手可及。

They share a seasoning station in the middle that has all the things they need:

他们在中间共用一个调料台，上面有他们需要的一切：

oyster sauce,

蚝油，

salt, sugar, MSG, chili oil, chili paste.

盐，糖，味精，辣椒油，辣椒酱。

The chefs don't even need to see the order.

厨师甚至不需要看菜单。

Once they see the ingredient hit the table,

他们一看到食材上桌，

they know what dish they have to make.

就知道自己要做什么菜了。

All the chef needs to focus on is cooking.

厨师只需要专注于烹饪。

Flip, flip, flip, flip, flip.

翻，翻，翻，翻，翻。

Only needs a couple of tosses to bring everything together. 短語動詞

只需要颠几次勺，所有的材料就融合在一起了。

Oh my god.

我的天哪。

That was like four or five tosses,

刚才大概颠了四五次勺，

15-20 seconds.

也就15到20秒。

No joke.

没开玩笑。

When you're stir frying,

炒菜的时候，

if you toss something into the air,

如果你把食材抛到空中，

then when it's in the air because of how hot that wok is,

当食材在空中的时候，因为锅底太热了，

it stops cooking.

它就停止了加热。

When it touches that wok again,

当它再次接触到锅的时候，

it's hot again.

又变热了。

So it's cooking only by conduction. 用詞

所以它纯粹是通过热传导来烹饪的。

So as it tosses and tosses and tosses,

所以随着一次又一次的颠勺，

it's like it just gets seared and seared and seared all over again. 講解

就好像它被一次又一次地重新炙烤。

That temperature reaches 400 plus degrees,

那个温度能达到400多度，

it goes through the Maillard reaction and all those sugars inside of those ingredients start to caramelize. 文化背景

发生美拉德反应，食材里面的糖分开始焦糖化。

There's a sweetness, umami,

甜味、鲜味，

all of that starts to be expressed.

所有的味道都开始散发出来。

The wok cooks will finish the cook in a matter of minutes, 短語搭配

炒菜师傅可以在几分钟之内完成烹饪，

if not seconds. 表達脈絡

甚至只需要几秒钟。

Once that hot food is done,

热腾腾的菜一做好，

it's going to come out right in the middle where the servers will pick those plates up and bus them directly to the tables.

就会立刻送到中间，服务员把盘子端起来直接送到餐桌上。

Yeah.

对。

See what I said about that dai pai dong wok hey. 文化背景

明白我刚才说大排档的“镬气”了吧。

They can make special wok hey.

他们能炒出特别的“镬气”。

Special wok hey.

特别的“镬气”。

Oh.

哦。

Oh.

哦。

Now, because this is a dai pai dong,

因为这是一家大排档，

this is not a regular Chinese restaurant inside,

里面不是普通的中餐厅，

the government gives them a license that's been grandfathered in to cook with kerosene. 用詞

政府给他们发了一种特殊许可牌照，允许他们使用煤油做饭。

Kerosene.

煤油。

Oh my god.

我的天哪。

Okay.

好吧。

That's the secret.

这就是秘诀。

Kerosene makes this extra, extra, extra hot.

煤油让火变得超级、超级、超级旺。

You can't get stovetops this hot in Hong Kong anymore.

在香港你再也找不到这么热的炉灶了。

In Hong Kong,

在香港，

restaurants don't really take tips. 短語搭配

餐厅其实是不收小费的。

So if you were a restaurateur,

所以如果你是餐厅老板，

you ran restaurants,

经营着餐厅，

and you wanted to make a little bit more money,

想要多赚一点钱，

the key is to serve more people.

关键就是要接待更多的客人。

That's where this essence of speed comes in. 短語搭配

这就是速度至关重要的原因。

It's all about a brutalist sort of efficiency, right?

一切都关乎于一种近乎残酷的效率，对吧？

The tables here span the entire block.

这里的桌子摆满了整个街区。

And honestly, there's a type of freedom and do whatever you want spirit.

老实说，这里有一种自由自在、随心所欲的精神。

The number of tables that are in this restaurant that they can serve is dependent on where the cars are parked. 短語搭配

这家餐厅能摆多少桌子，能招待多少客人，取决于车停在哪里。

Today, unfortunately for them,

今天，很不幸，

as you can see,

正如你看到的，

somebody else parked their car right where these folding tables and these plastic stools are supposed to be. 語法

有人把车停在了本来应该摆折叠桌和塑料凳的地方。

So, sat down for dinner.

好了，坐下来吃晚饭了。

A bunch of friends came with us.

几个朋友和我们一起来了。

We're going to get some dai pai dong food.

我们准备吃点大排档的美食。

Give me a Coke.

给我拿瓶可乐。

I think they do at least three or four turns here a night. 用詞

我觉得他们一晚上至少能翻台三四次。

The funny thing is, she has no idea how many people she serves a night, 表達脈絡

有趣的是，老板娘完全不知道一晚能招待多少客人，

which I'm sure she knows how much money she's making.

但我敢肯定她知道自己能赚多少钱。

This is my favorite dish.

这是我最喜欢的菜。

This is the dish you order to test the wok technique of the chef.

这是一道用来考验厨师炒锅技术的菜。

Oh my goodness.

我的天哪。

You can't stop.

停不下来啊。

When you get to describe food in the studio, 語法

要是让你在演播室里描述食物，

I can talk through all the ingredients if you have time. 短語動詞

如果有时间，我可以把所有食材都说一遍。

But here, everything happens so fast.

但是在这里，一切都发生得太快了。

It's like sportscasting. 表達脈絡

就像体育解说一样。

You have to like-

你必须得像——

and you have to like...

然后你必须得像……

Okay.

好吧。

Typhoon shelter crab. 文化背景

避风塘炒蟹。

Look at this.

看看这个。

Are you joking? 語氣意圖

开玩笑吧？

Are you joking?

开玩笑吧？

That's a whole claw.

这是一整只蟹钳。

No joke.

没开玩笑。

So hot.

好烫。

You want those like earthy, almost burnt chili crisp tones right at the end. 用詞

你希望在回味中尝到那种朴实的、带有几分焦香的辣味。

But at the top, you want that bright sparks of that small dried bird's eye chili. 講解

但在刚入口时，你想要那种干制小鸟眼椒带来的明亮刺激感。

And then the fresh pepper, don't really taste it that much

还有新鲜的甜椒，其实尝不太出味道，

but that's mostly there for color. 短語搭配

但主要是用来配色的。

I think so much about dai pai dong cooking is about style.

我觉得大排档的烹饪在很大程度上讲究的是风格。

And here, chef is trying to address all those layers of heat. 習語

在这里，厨师试图展现所有的辣味层次。

I'm just sitting here, and for the next two minutes I'm going to be tasting that crab.

我就坐在这里，在接下来的两分钟里，我要细细品尝这只螃蟹。

Okay.

好吧。

You saw all this stuff but Yeah.

你看到了这些东西，但是，没错。

Bro, it smells so good.

兄弟，太香了。

The first time I came to Oi Man Sang was seeing chef off in the distance.

我第一次来爱文生的时候，是从远处看到了厨师。

When you walk into this restaurant space,

当你走进这片餐厅区域，

you walk down the middle of the road,

顺着马路中间走，

and in this kitchen all you see are his bright yellow shorts flapping in the wind.

在这个厨房里，你只能看到他那条鲜黄色的短裤在风中飘扬。

Chef has forearms of a wok god. 習語

厨师有着炒锅之神般的小臂。

Nothing stops him.

没什么能阻挡他。

No heat, no fire, no injury. 表達脈絡

高温不行，烈火不行，伤痛也不行。

Because he's the coolest dude in all of Hong Kong. 習語

因为他是全香港最酷的男人。

Yeah.

没错。

Oh yeah.

噢，没错。

Cheers.

干杯。

Thank you for coming. 語氣意圖

谢谢光临。

Thanks for having us.

感谢招待。

Yeah.

是啊。

I'm hungry.

我饿了。

Okay.

好吧。

Let's get out of here.

我们走吧。