我們品嚐了香港最著名的街頭海鮮 | 街頭美食 | Bon Appétit：英語精讀講義

You just got here early.

你來得還挺早。

Sun's still up.

太陽還沒下山呢。

People aren't quite here yet,

人都還沒怎麼來，

but the kitchen just started cranking. 用詞

但廚房已經開始忙活了。

So let's see what they're cooking at Oi Man Sang.

我們來看看愛文生在做些什麼。

Seafood dai pai dong.

海鮮大排檔。

This is what we call a dai pai dong, 文化背景

這就是我們所說的大排檔，

which literally translates to big license stall. 片語搭配

字面意思就是擁有大牌照的攤位。

They make this thing we call siu chau, 文化背景

他們做一種我們叫做小炒的東西，

small stir fries.

就是小份的爆炒菜。

They specialize in fresh seafood,

他們專做新鮮海鮮，

huge amounts of seasoning,

會放大量的調料，

big aromatics,

重香料，

high-octane cooking, 慣用語

猛火爆炒，

always absorbing new cultural influences,

總是吸收新的飲食文化，

serving a huge amount of people.

服務於龐大的人群。

So, we're in the district,

那麼，我們現在所在的這片區域，

a neighborhood called Sham Shui Po.

是一個叫深水埗的街區。

Sham Shui Po is known for a lot of manufacturing,

深水埗以製造業聞名，

a lot of textiles,

有很多紡織廠，

and this type of eating was sort of blue-collar and democratic and all over the place. 用詞

這種飲食方式多少有些藍領和大眾化，隨處可見。

Everyone from every sector of society all over Hong Kong will descend on places like this because you get to drink cold beer, 片語動詞

香港社會各界的人都會來到像這樣的地方，因為你可以喝冰啤酒，

eat hot food all four seasons.

一年四季都能吃上熱騰騰的飯菜。

Because of the history,

因為歷史原因，

the push and pull, 慣用語

幾經波折，

there aren't that many dai pai dongs left in Hong Kong.

香港剩下的大排檔已經不多了。

There're probably only around about 20 of these guys left.

大概只剩下20家左右。

You'd read different stories.

你可能會聽到不同的說法。

Some people might say there used to be 700, 文法

有人可能說以前有700家，

there used to be 2,000,

以前有2000家，

there used to be 3,000.

以前有3000家。

Point is, 表達脈絡

重點是，

as wonderful as this place is, 文法

儘管這個地方很棒，

a little bit of a rare sight.

如今也算是罕見的景象了。

These are really traditional old school types of restaurants in Hong Kong, 用詞

這些真的是香港非常傳統的老派餐廳，

where government gave people licenses to cook on the street.

政府給人們發放了在街頭烹飪的牌照。

Now, the government doesn't issue these licenses anymore,

現在，政府不再發放這些牌照了，

which means that the only way to keep cooking at a place like this is to transfer that license from a friend to a friend or from one generation to the next generation.

這意味著要繼續在這樣的地方經營，唯一的辦法就是把牌照轉讓給朋友，或者代代相傳。

Uh-huh.

嗯哼。

Oh.

喔。

Oh.

喔。

So this license they've held on to for 60 years. 片語動詞

所以這個牌照他們已經保留了60年。

As a result,

結果是，

these guys the guys who are operating it,

這些經營的人，

they're not the owners of the license but the operators of the restaurant.

他們不是牌照的主人，而是餐廳的經營者。

The way it's set up is based on lines.

這裡的運作方式是流水線作業。

This chef's job here,

這位廚師的工作，

what you might call a garde manger, 文化背景

你可以稱之為配菜員，

is to put together these little bowls of ingredients that are then passed off to the wok station so that all the wok guys need to do is cook it and then put it on top of a plate. 講解

就是把這些裝著食材的小碗準備好，然後傳遞給炒鍋師傅，炒鍋師傅只需要把它們炒熟然後裝盤就行了。

Whatever the chef needs for their dish,

無論廚師做什麼菜需要什麼食材，

that's the guy that's going to put it all together. 片語動詞

那個人都會把所有的材料準備妥當。

On the right hand side is the seafood butcher.

右邊這位是海鮮處理師傅。

He's going to butcher, clean,

他負責根據訂單宰殺、清洗，

and prepare all the seafood to order. 片語搭配

並準備所有的海鮮。

All the seafood fresh comes in every single day.

所有的海鮮每天都是新鮮送達。

These tanks are all live fish.

這些水缸裡都是活魚。

You get pomfret,

有白鯧，

you have dong sing pan,

有東星斑，

and crabs and as well,

還有螃蟹，

and that's what we're going to ask chef to make.

這也是我們要請廚師做的。

Uh this is crab that's known for its flesh.

呃，這種螃蟹以肉質飽滿著稱。

It's killed to order,

現點現殺，

chopped up, split up, butchered.

切塊，劈開，處理好。

Woo!

哇！

In the middle are two chefs each with their own woks.

中間是兩位廚師，每人一口鍋。

They specialize in their own dishes.

他們各自負責自己的拿手菜。

Right hand side tends to be the slightly more complicated oftentimes seafood dishes. 文法

右邊通常做稍微複雜一點的，往往是海鮮類的菜。

Left hand side a lot more sauces and vegetables stir fries.

左邊更多是做醬汁和蔬菜炒菜。

Everything they need is in exact arm's reach.

他們需要的一切都觸手可及。

They share a seasoning station in the middle that has all the things they need:

他們在中間共用一個調料台，上面有他們需要的一切：

oyster sauce,

蠔油，

salt, sugar, MSG, chili oil, chili paste.

鹽，糖，味精，辣椒油，辣椒醬。

The chefs don't even need to see the order.

廚師甚至不需要看菜單。

Once they see the ingredient hit the table,

他們一看到食材上桌，

they know what dish they have to make.

就知道自己要做什麼菜了。

All the chef needs to focus on is cooking.

廚師只需要專注於烹飪。

Flip, flip, flip, flip, flip.

翻，翻，翻，翻，翻。

Only needs a couple of tosses to bring everything together. 片語動詞

只需要拋幾次鑊，所有的材料就融合在一起了。

Oh my god.

我的天哪。

That was like four or five tosses,

剛才大概拋了四五次鑊，

15-20 seconds.

也就15到20秒。

No joke.

沒開玩笑。

When you're stir frying,

炒菜的時候，

if you toss something into the air,

如果你把食材拋到空中，

then when it's in the air because of how hot that wok is,

當食材在空中的時候，因為鍋底太熱了，

it stops cooking.

它就停止了加熱。

When it touches that wok again,

當它再次接觸到鍋的時候，

it's hot again.

又變熱了。

So it's cooking only by conduction. 用詞

所以它純粹是透過熱傳導來烹飪的。

So as it tosses and tosses and tosses,

所以隨著一次又一次的拋鑊，

it's like it just gets seared and seared and seared all over again. 講解

就好像它被一次又一次地重新炙烤。

That temperature reaches 400 plus degrees,

那個溫度能達到400多度，

it goes through the Maillard reaction and all those sugars inside of those ingredients start to caramelize. 文化背景

發生梅納反應，食材裡面的糖分開始焦糖化。

There's a sweetness, umami,

甜味、鮮味，

all of that starts to be expressed.

所有的味道都開始散發出來。

The wok cooks will finish the cook in a matter of minutes, 片語搭配

炒菜師傅可以在幾分鐘之內完成烹飪，

if not seconds. 表達脈絡

甚至只需要幾秒鐘。

Once that hot food is done,

熱騰騰的菜一做好，

it's going to come out right in the middle where the servers will pick those plates up and bus them directly to the tables.

就會立刻送到中間，服務生把盤子端起來直接送到餐桌上。

Yeah.

對。

See what I said about that dai pai dong wok hey. 文化背景

明白我剛才說大排檔的「鑊氣」了吧。

They can make special wok hey.

他們能炒出特別的「鑊氣」。

Special wok hey.

特別的「鑊氣」。

Oh.

喔。

Oh.

喔。

Now, because this is a dai pai dong,

因為這是一家大排檔，

this is not a regular Chinese restaurant inside,

裡面不是普通的中餐廳，

the government gives them a license that's been grandfathered in to cook with kerosene. 用詞

政府給他們發了一種特殊許可牌照，允許他們使用煤油做飯。

Kerosene.

煤油。

Oh my god.

我的天哪。

Okay.

好吧。

That's the secret.

這就是秘訣。

Kerosene makes this extra, extra, extra hot.

煤油讓火變得超級、超級、超級旺。

You can't get stovetops this hot in Hong Kong anymore.

在香港你再也找不到這麼熱的爐灶了。

In Hong Kong,

在香港，

restaurants don't really take tips. 片語搭配

餐廳其實是不收小費的。

So if you were a restaurateur,

所以如果你是餐廳老闆，

you ran restaurants,

經營著餐廳，

and you wanted to make a little bit more money,

想要多賺一點錢，

the key is to serve more people.

關鍵就是要接待更多的客人。

That's where this essence of speed comes in. 片語搭配

這就是速度至關重要的原因。

It's all about a brutalist sort of efficiency, right?

一切都關乎於一種近乎殘酷的效率，對吧？

The tables here span the entire block.

這裡的桌子擺滿了整個街區。

And honestly, there's a type of freedom and do whatever you want spirit.

老實說，這裡有一種自由自在、隨心所欲的精神。

The number of tables that are in this restaurant that they can serve is dependent on where the cars are parked. 片語搭配

這家餐廳能擺多少桌子，能招待多少客人，取決於車停在哪裡。

Today, unfortunately for them,

今天，很不幸，

as you can see,

正如你看到的，

somebody else parked their car right where these folding tables and these plastic stools are supposed to be. 文法

有人把車停在了本來應該擺摺疊桌和塑膠凳的地方。

So, sat down for dinner.

好了，坐下來吃晚飯了。

A bunch of friends came with us.

幾個朋友和我們一起來了。

We're going to get some dai pai dong food.

我們準備吃點大排檔的美食。

Give me a Coke.

給我拿瓶可樂。

I think they do at least three or four turns here a night. 用詞

我覺得他們一晚上至少能翻桌三四次。

The funny thing is, she has no idea how many people she serves a night, 表達脈絡

有趣的是，老闆娘完全不知道一晚能招待多少客人，

which I'm sure she knows how much money she's making.

但我敢肯定她知道自己能賺多少錢。

This is my favorite dish.

這是我最喜歡的菜。

This is the dish you order to test the wok technique of the chef.

這是一道用來考驗廚師炒鍋技術的菜。

Oh my goodness.

我的天哪。

You can't stop.

停不下來啊。

When you get to describe food in the studio, 文法

要是讓你在攝影棚裡描述食物，

I can talk through all the ingredients if you have time. 片語動詞

如果有時間，我可以把所有食材都說一遍。

But here, everything happens so fast.

但是在這裡，一切都發生得太快了。

It's like sportscasting. 表達脈絡

就像體育轉播一樣。

You have to like-

你必須得像——

and you have to like...

然後你必須得像……

Okay.

好吧。

Typhoon shelter crab. 文化背景

避風塘炒蟹。

Look at this.

看看這個。

Are you joking? 語氣意圖

開玩笑吧？

Are you joking?

開玩笑吧？

That's a whole claw.

這是一整隻蟹鉗。

No joke.

沒開玩笑。

So hot.

好燙。

You want those like earthy, almost burnt chili crisp tones right at the end. 用詞

你希望在回味中嚐到那種樸實的、帶有幾分焦香的辣味。

But at the top, you want that bright sparks of that small dried bird's eye chili. 講解

但在剛入口時，你想要那種乾製小鳥眼椒帶來的明亮刺激感。

And then the fresh pepper, don't really taste it that much

還有新鮮的甜椒，其實嚐不太出味道，

but that's mostly there for color. 片語搭配

但主要是用來配色的。

I think so much about dai pai dong cooking is about style.

我覺得大排檔的烹飪在很大程度上講究的是風格。

And here, chef is trying to address all those layers of heat. 慣用語

在這裡，廚師試圖展現所有的辣味層次。

I'm just sitting here, and for the next two minutes I'm going to be tasting that crab.

我就坐在這裡，在接下來的兩分鐘裡，我要細細品嚐這隻螃蟹。

Okay.

好吧。

You saw all this stuff but Yeah.

你看到了這些東西，但是，沒錯。

Bro, it smells so good.

兄弟，太香了。

The first time I came to Oi Man Sang was seeing chef off in the distance.

我第一次來愛文生的時候，是從遠處看到了廚師。

When you walk into this restaurant space,

當你走進這片餐廳區域，

you walk down the middle of the road,

順著馬路中間走，

and in this kitchen all you see are his bright yellow shorts flapping in the wind.

在這個廚房裡，你只能看到他那條鮮黃色的短褲在風中飄揚。

Chef has forearms of a wok god. 慣用語

廚師有著炒鍋之神般的小臂。

Nothing stops him.

沒什麼能阻擋他。

No heat, no fire, no injury. 表達脈絡

高溫不行，烈火不行，傷痛也不行。

Because he's the coolest dude in all of Hong Kong. 慣用語

因為他是全香港最酷的男人。

Yeah.

沒錯。

Oh yeah.

喔，沒錯。

Cheers.

乾杯。

Thank you for coming. 語氣意圖

謝謝光臨。

Thanks for having us.

感謝招待。

Yeah.

是啊。

I'm hungry.

我餓了。

Okay.

好吧。

Let's get out of here.

我們走吧。